Driving the Karakoram Highway: what nobody tells you
The KKH is spectacular and occasionally unnerving. Here is what we tell guests before they set off.
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The best time to visit Gilgit-Baltistan, month by month
Spring blossom, summer trekking, autumn colour or winter silence — each season here is a different place.
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Walking to the Nanga Parbat viewpoint from our door
A two-hour round trip that ends at one of the great mountain views on earth. No guide strictly required.
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What to eat in Gilgit-Baltistan
Chapshuro, mamtu, apricot soup and the walnut cake our kitchen refuses to give the recipe for.
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Fairy Meadows in a single day: is it possible?
Yes, but only just. Here is the realistic timetable, and why staying overnight is usually better.
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Packing for the northern areas, honestly
You need fewer clothes and more layers than you think. A short, practical list.
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Photographing the peaks: light, timing and patience
The mountain is often hidden. When it clears, you have about twenty minutes of extraordinary light.
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Travelling responsibly in the north
Water, waste, wages and why we buy almost everything within thirty kilometres.
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Winter in Jaglot: the season nobody books
Fewer travellers, clearer air, and the mountains at their most dramatic. Also: bring a coat.
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Beyond Hunza: three valleys most visitors miss
Naltar, Bagrot and Haramosh are each within a morning's drive and each nearly empty.
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